Procida – an unexpected visit
Part 6 of our 1st Italian Adventure
Following on from our wonderful stay on the Aeolian islands and Part 5 where we took the train back up to Naples from Messina (where the train went on the ferry!!!!) we had a 1 night stay in Naples at Covo Degli Angioini before heading to the island of Procida for a few nights.
Now before I tell you all about Procida I have to tell you that we didn’t plan on visiting the island at all. In fact we weren’t even aware of Procida or any of the other islands in the bay of Naples, apart from Capri really.
The B & B we had in Naples could only offer us 1 night so we said we’d find an alternative in the morning so that’s what we did.
Next morning we got online and found a B & B on Via Flavio Gioia, Naples so off we went. When we arrived, dragging suitcases behind we discovered that there wasn’t a B & B there at all.
On closer look at our booking we saw that there was a Via Flavio Gioia on the island of Procida in the bay of Naples, so after realising our error we headed down to the port to catch a ferry.
Our planned visits to Pompei and Herculaneum would have to wait.
How did we get to there?
We took the SNAV hydrofoil from Naples Port to Procida. There are hydrofoils and ferries to other destinations and the quay where they depart from is easy to find. There are large information boards showing which ferries/hydrofoils are going where and when the next one departs. The ticket booths are clearly visible and our ticket to Procida cost around €10 each.
Procida – where did we stay?
We stayed at Le Grand Bleu Apartments on the west coast of the island. The beauty of having an apartment was that there was a little kitchen facility where we could make coffee in the morning and cook and evening meal if we wanted. We could even pack a picnic for the day. With lovely little grocers and fish markets on the island that is exactly what we did. Oh and we roasted some chestnuts too.
The room was adequate with a nice balcony and if you stuck your neck out you could see the sea. The bathroom and shower were great. I cant remember exactly how much it cost but it was reasonable.
What is there to do on?
Have a good old wander.
Procida is a lovely island to walk about and very much unspoiled by tourism and very colourful. Houses and boats are painted in lovely sunshine colours and they really sets the small island apart from its neighbour Ischia. Procida is much less glamorous than Capri but sits in the bay of Naples with a quiet confidence that it does indeed have something to offer even though its not on the main tourist track.
Go to the beach
The island has quite a few beaches to lay out your towel and catch the Neapolitan rays. The one we tended to visit was Spiaggia Chiaia. It was a vast beach in a horseshoe bay on the east coast of the island with views of the the imposing building of the former prison of Procida and out to Capri. There are many more beaches to choose from round the island and swimming is fab.
Take a trip to Ischia
We took a trip to the neighbouring island of Ischia. The ferry cost around €7 each way and the trip only took about 20 mins. Ischia is bigger than Procida and much more touristy. This was our first trip to Ischia (we’ve been back a few times since then) and we decided to get away from the main tourist areas and found a hiking trail. FRASSITELLI TO BOSCO DELLA FALANGA WALK The trail took us up the coast and into the mountains. It wound through lush forests full of horse chestnut trees and troglodyte dwellings. It was a spectacular walk.
How did we get to the start of the walk?
We got the bus from the port to the town of Serrara which only cost a few €. From there the hiking route is signposted, path number 501. The bus back to Ischia can be caught from the terminus which is just up the road a few yards from where it dropped us off. Full description of the route and how to get there can be found – Enchanted Woods
There are a few more fantastic things to do and see on Ischia but I’ll save them till I write about the next time we visited this beautiful island.
Have a luxurious day out in Capri
It was my birthday so we decided to treat ourselves and take a ferry over to Capri. Capri is famous for being the playground of Hollywood royalty and it didn’t disappoint. Unfortunately there is no current ferry from Procida to Capri so if you wanted to visit Capri from the islands you’d need to hop over to Ischia and catch the ferry from there. The price is currently around €17 return.
Here’s a few things to do when visiting Capri
Climb Mount Solaro
Getting to the top of Mount Solaro is fun in the chair lift and at only €12 round trip its fun. On a clear day you get wonderful views to the mainland and other islands as the chair lift ascends. At the top there’s a nice walk over to the back of the island and a restaurant and bar. If you go to the far end of the summit area then the views are spectacular to the other of the island.
Take a walk around the island
You can also take the funicular up to the main piazza from the marina. The funicular is only €2 each way and it saves an incredibly steep walk up to the main town. The island has many walking paths. Meandering round the winding streets with their lemoncello and tourist trinket sellers is a lovely way to walk off a nice meal or spend a few hours exploring the island.
Cocktail in the Piazza
Even though it can be a bit pricy you must have a drink in the central piazza and watch the world go by. Relax and enjoy the atmposhere of this indulgent island.
Or you can sample the fabulous seafood in one of the harbour front restaurants.
It is a bit of a tourist trap but since it was my birthday we opted for a restaurant front and centre and chose our favourite, Spaghetti Vongole for our meal. Mamma Mia it was delicious.
There are loads of other things to get up to on Capri: (we had to leave some things on our to-do list for when we return)
Visit the Blue Grotto, Take a boat trip round the island, stay over in one of the many beautiful hotels and sample some more of the many walks around the island.
